Torvehallerne: A Market with History

Just a step away from the hustle of Nørreport station, between the wide expanse of Israel Plads and a row of residential facades, lies Torvehallerne — one of Copenhagen’s most vibrant and irresistible places. More than just a posh market, it’s where the city’s culinary soul comes to life.

It’s the kind of place where you instantly feel the rhythm of the city. Students rush through between classes, chefs chat with suppliers, and tourists pause, wide-eyed, as they take in the glow of glass halls filled with fresh produce, handmade delicacies, and dishes from every corner of the world.

But Torvehallerne’s story is much bigger than gourmet food or Danish treats. It is deeply tied to Copenhagen’s food supply and urban development. The site has evolved from part of the old city fortifications to a bustling produce market, then to a nearly forgotten urban void — before finally being reimagined as a modern version of its former self.

While the current incarnation of Torvehallerne is relatively new — dating back to 2011 — its origins stretch into medieval times, linked to its location near the old north gate of Nørreport. Like many fortified European cities, Copenhagen’s gates served as entry points for goods, custom checkpoints, and informal meeting places between farmers and townspeople. It is safe to assume there was commerce happening here as early as the 17th century, and there is even indirect evidence in the form of complaints filed about trading peasants near the city gates.

In the late 1800s, after Copenhagen’s fortifications had been dismantled and the city began to expand north, the site was established as Copenhagen’s central wholesale produce market, Known as Grønttorv. It was a bustling, noisy, but absolutely essential to the city’s food supply, remaining so until 1958, when overcrowding and traffic made a strong case for relocating it to Valby.

Afterwards, the area lost its original purpose and, some might say, its spirit. For a a very long time, nothing occupied the site except for a gas station, a parking lot, and a rather charmless square. It took decades of Copenhageners remarking on empty and underused the area felt before anyone acted — but once the process began, Copenhagen delivered brilliantly.

In 1997, architect Hans Peter Hagens wrote a widely discussed article proposing the revival of a city-center market. It would take years for the idea to gain momentum, to be refined,  and be fully planned before Torvehallerne finally opened to the public in September 2011.

It was also Hans Peter Hagens’ Architecture firm, Arkitekturværkstedet, that designed the Torvehallerne, drawing inspiration from Mediterranean and Moorish architecture to create a rhythmic, airy flow. Torvehallerne is comprised of two transparent market halls made of steel and glass, allowing natural light to flood in. Their sides can be open to blur indoors and outdoors, while the space between them functions as a flexible public ‘street’ for social gatherings and seasonal stalls.

Since its opening, Torvehallerne has become a major tourist attraction and a daily market for locals. Alongside the renovation of the adjacent Israel Plads in 2014, it has played a key role in revitalizing the area’s urban life.

But enough about history and urban design. Here’s all the information you need including my  recommendations:

Location & Opening Hours

TorvehallerneKBH

Frederiksborggade 21, 1360 København K

General opening hours are Monday to Friday at 10-19, Saturday to Sunday at 10-18.

However, some stalls (like Coffee Collective, Albatross & Venner and others) open as early as 7, while others (like Hija de Sanchez, Le Petit Vinbar and others) stay open later until 20 and onwards.

Hallernes Smørrebrød

I’ve written about Hallernes Smørrebrød in a previous post about Smørrebrød, but there is no reason to leave them out. What began as a small stand here in Torvehallerne in 2012, became a network of branches all over Copenhagen.

This is one of the best places to get acquainted with the Danish Smørrebrød tradition and they even offer a tasting menu of 3 small Smørrebrød for 149 kr.

Albatross & Venner

Albatross & Venner (Albatross and Friends) is a 100% organic bakery in the middle of Torvehallerne! You can actually see the bakers in full swing as they make croissants, bread and other pastries on the spot. If you’re not just eating with your eyes, you can enjoy Danish classics such as Tebirkes or Kanelsnegl alongside French delicacies such as Baguettes and Queen Aman.

Summerbird Organic

Aside from amazing chocolaty and nutty treats, made with nature’s best ingredients, you can find here the famous Danish Flødbolle — a chocolate-coated marshmallow treat, consisting of a biscuit base topped with marshmallow-like filling and then coated in a hard shell of chocolate. You can get mini-size one in boxes with assorted flavors or a box with 4 grand ones, a perfect sweet souvenir to take home with you, if you can resist the temptation to eat it all!

Charcuteri Ost Vin

If you are staying at an AirB&B or simply love to have delicious snack this deli is the place for you. Here you can get some delicious cheeses and cured meats to go with the amazing bread you bought at Albatross & Venner. You can also pick up their daily sandwich or make one of your own on the spot.

Coffee Collective

If you find yourself a bit tired from walking around gazing at all this bounty, maybe you just need a little cup of pick-me-up. Coffee Collective’s stall is always packed but the coffee is worth the wait. As a roastery and coffee shops chain, they are dedicated to creating truly great coffee and even have their own signature brew. They have their own pastries too, which you can enjoy in the adjacent outdoor seating area, overlooking Israel Plads.

There are so many things to see, so many smells and flavors to try and you can really spend hours there. It is the ideal spot for a light lunch or food tastings during your visit and that is way it will be included in one of my upcoming tours.

Welcome to Torvehallerne — a place where Copenhagen’s past and present meet, one delicious bite at a time.